Vitamin C is the one skincare nutrient that all skincare professionals recommend due to its incredibly diverse list of benefits. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that not only protects your skin cells against oxidative stress-induced damage by free radicals, but is also an anti-inflammatory that is actually vital to your skin’s healing process & collagen production. Vitamin C is a nutrient that is actually required for collagen synthesis, both topically & internally. Adding a Vitamin C product to your beauty ritual can help to refine the skin’s tone & texture by brightening while also working to hydrate and reduce fine lines, sagging skin & other signs of aging.
For many brands, Vitamin C is an essential “step” in their skincare line due to its multitude of superpowers, from easing inflammation, healing breakouts, preventing premature aging, photoprotection from UVA/UVB & treating hyperpigmentation. However, it is critical to know that all Vitamin C is not created equally. There are a variety of Vitamin C derivatives that are used as ingredients in conventional products that are marketed as Vitamin C serums, creams, etc. These range from L-Ascorbic acid (AA) & Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) to Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) or Ascorbyl palmitate.
One of our hero products here at Citrine is the Agent Nateur holi(c), a Vitamin C powder that contains just two ingredients, sodium ascorbyl phosphate or SAP, and Calcium ketogluconate. By choosing to use SAP as opposed to the more common, L-Ascorbic Acid, holi(c) protects your skin from the damaging effects that can be caused by use of the other Vitamin C derivatives that actually oxidize when they come in contact with your skin.
When you use a conventional Vitamin C serum that contains L-Absocrobic Acid, you are subjecting your skin to the oxidation process. If you have ever witnessed a Vitamin C serum turn brown or transform color over time, that is the oxidation process taking place. Oxidation is a destructive process so when you use this form of Vitamin C on your skin, it’s oxidizing & actually causing skin damage. The AA form of Vitamin C is considered a pro-oxidant, which is exactly the opposite of an antioxidant. Antioxidants prevent the oxidation of other molecules, which in turn protects the cell against damage from free radicals. Pro-oxidants do the reverse of this by inducing oxidative stress.
By simply being exposed to light & oxygen, aka living here on planet Earth, the L-Absocrobic Acid begins to oxidate, both on the shelf & also right on your skin. This causes inflammation, breaking down of the skin barrier which leads to acne, fine lines & is actually speeding up the aging process of the skin. The instability of AA is a reason alone to avoid this Vitamin C derivative in your skincare. Understanding the dangers of conventional Vitamin C serums & the damaging effects of L-Absocrobic Acid is the first step in and swapping out this often misunderstood step in your beauty routine.
Why we are such huge fans of the Agent Nateur holi(c) is that they utilize SAP instead, meaning there is absolutely no oxidation. Unique to many traditional serums, Agent Nateur formulated holi(c) in the form of a pure dry powder. With each use it must be activated using a toner or serum – ideally the holi(water). SAP is the most stable form of Vitamin C and actually converts into ascorbic acid once it’s applied onto the skin, making it safe & keeping its integrity as an antioxidant.
SAP is also ideal for those who suffer from skin concerns such as acne & rosacea because of how gentle yet potent it is. It touts regenerative benefits & anti-inflammatory properties. Because of its stability, studies have shown that SAP is the most effective derivative at preventing the proliferation and growth of microorganisms like yeast and mold, as well as preventing the growth of bacteria that causes breakouts. (1). In another study, when used for a period of 90 days, SAP reduced facial sebum secretions, leaving the complexion less oily and acne-prone. (2) It has been clinically-proven to help brighten the complexion’s appearance, improve skin’s texture, and reduce the look of fine lines and age spots. (3)
In addition to the sodium ascorbyl phosphate, holi(c) is also formulated with a French-patented natural complex molecule, known as Calcium ketogluconate. This is a natural, non-toxic form of Calcium that is extracted during the fermentation process of lactic cultures. It has outstanding hydrating properties because it stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid & elastin. When applied to the skin, it’s the ingredient that gives skin that instant tightening effect making it feel very contoured & sculpted. This is an excellent ingredient for targeting fine lines, wrinkles & sagging skin.
Overall, holi(c) is a beautiful product that gives you a gorgeous glow, not only by healing hyperpigmentation & brightening the skin, but also tightening & plumping by restoring the skin’s elasticity & regenerating collagen. Melissa swears by using the holi(c) & holi(water) combination both day & night… that’s how obsessed we are!Sources